JEWELRY CARE

Because of the rising cost of gold, many up-and-coming jewelry designers are having to resort to sterling silver, vermeil, gold-fill and brass as metal mediums to work with so that lively and creative pieces can still be made while remaining accessible for more people. 

Interestingly, although we may not need it for killing werewolves, silver, just like brass and copper – and unlike gold – is naturally anti-microbial.  The surface of freshly polished silver, brass, or copper actually kills bacteria, fungi and certain viruses within a few seconds upon contact.  Perhaps for that reason, these metals have been believed by certain cultures to have “healing properties” since antiquity.

So, what are the differences exactly, between these mediums? And how should you care for your jewelry to keep it looking vibrant for as long as possible?

 

STERLING SILVER

Sterling silver is actually considered by many to be one of the most beautiful of the “white metals,” the only caveat being that it can tarnish over time with exposure to our environment.  It is also the most reflective of all metals, reflecting 95 percent of light across the visible spectrum, and was for that reason used as the reflective foil for mirrors for centuries. 

Marked “925,” this is an indication that the silver alloy used in sterling is 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metal alloys used to strengthen the silver so it retains its shape.  Some older jewelry used 95% silver and in rarer cases, slightly more silver content, but these pieces are rare in part due to the lack of durability of the metal at such a high concentration of silver.  You'll also come across pieces, typically older, with less silver content than sterling: made of “800 silver,” these contain a silver mixture that is 80% silver and 20% other alloy.  800 silver typically has less shine than sterling, but is also more resistant to tarnish. Most silver, unless it is treated in certain ways, will have a surface that starts off bright and shiny, and eventually oxidizes until it is covered with tarnish. 

 

VERMEIL

Vermeil is a form of sterling silver that is coated in gold, three microns thick.  Although it is a much thicker layer of gold compared to the coating on the vast majority of gold-plated jewelry, it's still thin relative to gold-filled jewelry, and it will eventually wear off over time, leaving you with the underlying sterling silver, which can be beautiful in its own right.  Typically, the lower the carat weight of gold, the more durable that gold layer is in a piece of vermeil, as a higher carat weight also means softer gold. 

We enjoy using sterling and vermeil beads and chain in our pieces because they have their own intrinsic value.  Sterling and vermeil pieces obviously have a base metal that retains value even after you tire of wearing them, or the pieces fall out of fashion, in a way that gold-plated and even gold-filled jewelry typically do not. 

 

GOLD FILLED

Various forms of gold-filled jewelry have been created periodically for thousands of years. In Ancient Egypt, for example, gold was hammered into hair-thin sheets and rolled into a tight hollow tube, while filled in the middle with a base metal such as brass, to create cheaper wire for gold filigree.  Today, gold filled metal is constructed in two or three layers, with jewelers’ brass at the core.  A gold alloy is bonded to the brass core with heat and pressure.

Despite its ancient origins, consistent quality specifications weren’t created for gold-filled jewelry in the United States until the 1930s, after the value of bullion gold almost doubled overnight.  During World War II, precious metal shortages throughout the United States and most of Europe ushered in a new era of costume jewelry creations using gold fill that would rival fine jewelry fashions for many years to come.  

In the United States, standards for gold filled jewelry are defined by the Federal Trade Commission.  Items that are labelled gold filled must use metal materials mechanically bound with an outer layer of gold which amounts to 5% of the metal portion’s total weight. Therefore, items marked “1/20 14k,” for example, are composed of metal components which contain 95% of a base metal (usually a type of brass, but sometimes sterling silver) and 5% 14k gold.

Although the gold layer will eventually wear off, gold-filled jewelry, unlike vermeil or plated jewelry, can typically retain its gold hue for years, even with daily use.  It is for this reason that we like to use gold-filled beads in a number of our pieces.

 

STERLING, VERMEIL & GOLD FILLED JEWELRY CARE

In general, we recommend treating your jewelry like you would your dress clothes, or anything else you wish to maintain looking “fresh” for as long as possible.  In other words, try to keep your pieces clean and free of any oils, perfumes, or moisturizers, especially when they aren't in use; and remember to take off your pieces and place them somewhere safe when you go to the gym, shower, go swimming, etc. 

Sweat throughout the day can leave a layer of salt and bacteria on the surface of jewelry, which speeds up its oxidation process.  We recommend cleaning your jewelry in mildly soapy water, rinsing well, and drying with a paper towel, fresh cloth, or antimicrobial towel, at the end of any days of hard use.

Also, always try to keep your jewelry stored when it is not in use in an air-tight container, ideally in a jewelry box, so it is exposed to less air, and its surface will not oxidize as quickly.